Colour equals flavour, thanks to a process known as the Maillard reaction, which occurs when proteins and sugars are transformed by the application of heat. For this reason, “you always want to sear meat before putting it in a pan or into the oven”, says Charlie Crote, head chef of the Midland Grand Dining Room in London. “This builds a crust on the outside, and firms up the meat [in a good way].” It’s worth noting, though, that this simple technique is all about flavour; it’s sometimes said that browning meat also seals in the juices, but that’s simply not true.
First up, you need a really hot pan. “Leave it on a high flame for a couple of minutes,” says Skye Gyngell, chef-patron of Spring in London, and culinary director of Heckfield Place in Hampshire, “until you see a gentle smoke rise from the centre of the pan.” Then add oil – extra-virgin olive oil in Gyngell’s case, vegetable or sunflower for Crote – and swirl it around so the pan is evenly coated. Next, generously season the meat, which should be at room temperature and as dry as possible (moisture is your enemy here), with sea salt and black pepper: “If you do this any earlier,” Crote says, “it will draw out the moisture, which means, when you put the meat in the pan, it will just have a layer of moisture on the outside and will boil rather than sear.” It’s only once any excess moisture has evaporated that the meat can start to brown.
On hitting the pan, the meat should sizzle immediately, and make sure there’s plenty of space between each piece. “It’s really important not to overcrowd the pan, otherwise the meat will stew rather than brown and get that lovely crust,” Gyngell adds. “Don’t fuss with it, either, by which I mean don’t prod and constantly turn it.” Rather, you want to leave the meat to do its thing – even if it looks as if it’s sticking to the bottom, “once the crust forms, it will eventually release itself”. When you’ve got that deep colour and good crust, take the meat out of the pan, leave to cool for a minute, then transfer to, say, a roasting tray (along with anything else you might want to have with it in, for example, a traybake dinner). “This rest will help to keep in the flavour and make the meat more pleasing in colour,” Gyngell says. But don’t do anything daft such as cover it with foil, Crote adds, otherwise “it will sweat rather than roast, so leave it open and exposed to get that drier roasting”.
Always remember to deglaze the browning pan, too – there are a lot of crisp, tasty bits to be had there. Gyngell pours off any excess fat, wipes the pan lightly with kitchen towel, then returns it to the heat. “Add some wine, leave it to bubble and reduce, then add any other flavourings and tip into the meat tray.”
If a stew or braise is your jam, meanwhile, remember that low and slow will win the day: “It will also taste so much better if it’s made ahead of time, left to cool, and reheated,” Gyngell says. Happily, that makes such dishes ideal for autumn entertaining, too.
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